🛸 動態殘影 (Motion Blur) 怎麼看？
🛸 How to check Motion Blur?
此測試模擬物體在螢幕上高速水平移動。觀察綠色方塊（原生刷新率）的邊緣是否保持銳利：在 144Hz 以上的螢幕，方塊拖尾應幾乎不可見；若邊緣模糊或出現明顯殘影，代表螢幕的 GtG（灰階轉換）反應時間跟不上刷新率，或是系統根本未正確輸出高刷新率訊號。
This test simulates objects moving horizontally at high speed. Observe if the edges of the green box (native refresh rate) remain sharp. On a 144Hz+ monitor, trailing should be almost invisible. If the edges are blurry or have severe ghosting, it means the monitor's GtG (Gray-to-Gray) response time cannot keep up with the refresh rate, or the system isn't outputting a high refresh rate signal correctly.
📐 如何確認螢幕真的跑在高刷新率？
📐 How to confirm the monitor is running at a high refresh rate?
右上角的 FPS 數值即為目前瀏覽器實際收到的刷新率。若您的螢幕設定為 144Hz，但此處顯示 60，代表作業系統顯示設定（Windows 顯示設定 → 進階顯示設定 → 更新頻率）尚未切換，或您使用的是 HDMI 1.4 連接線（上限 60Hz），需換用 DisplayPort 或 HDMI 2.0 以上的線材。更省事的方法是切到「螢幕數據健檢」分頁，選擇你的螢幕型號，就會自動比對規格並列出修正步驟。
The FPS value in the top right is the actual refresh rate received by the browser. If your monitor is set to 144Hz but it shows 60 here, your OS display settings haven't been changed (Windows Settings → Advanced display settings → Refresh rate), or you're using an HDMI 1.4 cable (capped at 60Hz). Switch to a DisplayPort or HDMI 2.0+ cable. Even easier: open the Health Check tab and pick your monitor model to compare against its specs and get step-by-step fixes.
為什麼 60Hz 看起來很卡？
Why does 60Hz look stuttery?
這是正常的視覺適應現象。人眼習慣高刷新率後，回頭看 60Hz 會明顯感受到每幀之間的「視覺跳動」。對比測試中，藍色方塊模擬 60Hz、橘色模擬 30Hz——透過比較，您能直觀判斷當前螢幕的流暢度層級。
This is normal visual adaptation. Once your eyes get used to high refresh rates, looking back at 60Hz will make you noticeably feel the "visual jumps" between frames. In the comparison, the blue box simulates 60Hz and the orange simulates 30Hz. This comparison helps you intuitively judge your current monitor's smoothness.
📐 方法與限制：顯示的是網頁收到的更新率，量不到面板的反應時間；省電模式與背景分頁會讓數字改變。完整說明見測量方法與限制。
📐 Method & limits: Shows the refresh rate the page receives and cannot measure panel response time; power saving and background tabs change the number. See Methods & Limits.
⚫ 如何有系統地檢查壞點與漏光？
⚫ How to systematically check for dead pixels and backlight bleeding?
建議依序使用以下顏色全螢幕檢查，每個畫面停留 10–20 秒讓眼睛適應：
We recommend checking in fullscreen with the following colors sequentially, staying on each for 10–20 seconds to let your eyes adapt:
-
全黑Pure Black：
在暗處找亮點（亮點壞點）；並在螢幕四角觀察是否有角落漏光（IPS Glow）
Look for bright dots in the dark (stuck pixels); check the four corners for backlight bleeding (IPS Glow).
-
全白Pure White：
找恆黑的暗點，以及畫面中央是否有雲狀不均勻（Clouding）
Look for permanently dark dots (dead pixels) and check the center for clouding (uneven backlight).
-
紅 / 綠 / 藍Red / Green / Blue：
找僅在單色下才出現的次像素壞點，以及色彩均勻度
Look for sub-pixel defects that only appear under single colors, and check overall color uniformity.
-
青色 (Cyan)Cyan：
同時覆蓋綠與藍通道，更容易發現複合壞點
Covers both green and blue channels, making it easier to spot composite dead pixels.
ISO 13406-2 標準將壞點分為三級，一般消費級螢幕在交貨後允許 1–5 個 Class 1/2 壞點，但各品牌保固政策不同，購買前建議確認退換貨條款。
The ISO 13406-2 standard classifies pixel defects into three classes. General consumer monitors allow 1-5 Class 1/2 defects after delivery. Warranty policies vary by brand, so check the return policy before purchasing.
如何退出全螢幕？
How to exit fullscreen?
按 ESC 鍵退出，手機與平板則點右上角的 ✕。亦可點擊螢幕任意位置循環切換下一個測試顏色，無需返回主頁面。iPhone 不支援網頁全螢幕，想隱藏網址列請先「分享」→「加入主畫面」，再從主畫面圖示開啟。
Press the ESC key to exit, or tap the ✕ in the top-right corner on phones and tablets. You can also click anywhere on the screen to cycle to the next test color without returning to the main page. iPhones can't show web pages in fullscreen; to hide the address bar, use Share → Add to Home Screen and open the page from the home screen icon.
🔥 如何檢查 OLED 烙印？為什麼不用黑色畫面？
🔥 How do I check an OLED for burn-in? Why not use a black screen?
使用「OLED 烙印檢測」：亮度調到 50% 以上、在暗室中依序看中灰、深灰、紅、綠、藍、白六個全螢幕畫面，找固定形狀的暗影或色偏，例如工作列、瀏覽器分頁列、準星、遊戲血條或台標。OLED 顯示黑色時像素是關閉的，所以烙印在黑底上看不出來，亮度調得越低也越不明顯。中灰最容易看出亮度衰退，單色畫面則能看出某一色次像素的老化。
Use the OLED Burn-in Check: set brightness to 50% or more, darken the room, and go through six full-screen fields (50% gray, 20% gray, red, green, blue, white) looking for a fixed shape that's darker or tinted, such as the taskbar, browser tabs, a crosshair, a health bar or a TV logo. OLED pixels are off when showing black, so burn-in can't show on black, and it gets harder to see as brightness drops. Mid gray reveals brightness loss best; single-colour fields reveal wear on one sub-pixel colour.
烙印、暫時殘影、面板均勻度怎麼分辨？
How do I tell burn-in from image retention or panel uniformity?
- 烙印Burn-in：形狀對應到介面元素（工作列、圖示、遊戲介面），位置固定，跑完螢幕內建的像素清洗仍然存在。The shape matches something on screen (taskbar, icons, a HUD), stays in the same place, and survives the monitor's pixel refresh.
- 暫時殘影Image retention：長時間顯示同一畫面後出現，幾分鐘到幾小時內，或螢幕待機跑完自動補償後就消失。Appears after showing one image for a long time and fades within minutes to hours, or after the monitor's automatic compensation in standby.
- 面板均勻度Panel uniformity：整面的直條／橫條紋、邊角偏暗或雲狀，形狀不對應任何介面，通常在深灰畫面最明顯。QD-OLED 等 OLED 在深灰出現輕微條紋很常見，和使用時間無關。Stripes across the whole screen, darker edges or cloudy patches that don't match anything on screen, usually most visible on dark gray. Faint stripes on dark gray are common on QD-OLED and other OLEDs and aren't caused by use.
📷 拍照分析準嗎？照片會上傳嗎？
📷 How accurate is the photo analysis? Is my photo uploaded?
照片只在你的瀏覽器裡處理，不會上傳。分析會先扣除相機造成的邊角偏暗等平滑變化，再把約 1% 以上的亮度差放大顯示並標出偏暗區塊。它是輔助工具：反光、摩爾紋與拍攝角度可能造成假的偏暗區塊，也可能漏掉很輕微的烙印，請回到螢幕上對照確認。關燈、正對螢幕、稍微退後拍攝效果最好。分析圖可以下載，申請保固時當作參考。
Your photo is processed in your browser and never uploaded. The analysis first removes smooth changes such as the camera's darker corners, then amplifies brightness differences of about 1% or more and marks darker areas. It's an aid, not a measurement: reflections, moiré and the shooting angle can create false dark areas, and very faint burn-in can be missed, so always confirm on the screen. Shoot with the lights off, straight on and from a little further back. You can save the result image to support a warranty claim.
網路上的「烙印修復」影片或閃色程式有用嗎？
Do "burn-in fix" videos or colour-flashing tools work?
對 OLED 沒有用。OLED 烙印是像素的發光材料老化，無法恢復；快速閃爍的顏色只會讓所有像素多耗損一點。真正有幫助的是螢幕內建的像素清洗／面板維護（Pixel Refresh、Pixel Cleaning、Panel Care 等），它會重新校正老化不均的像素；多數品牌建議只在看到殘影時才手動執行，平常讓螢幕待機時自動補償即可。LCD 的暫時殘影則可以靠關機休息或播放動態畫面消除。
Not on an OLED. Burn-in is aged emissive material and can't be reversed; flashing colours just add a little wear to every pixel. What helps is the monitor's built-in pixel refresh or panel care (Pixel Refresh, Pixel Cleaning, Panel Care and so on), which recalibrates unevenly aged pixels. Most brands suggest running it manually only when you see retention, and otherwise letting the monitor compensate automatically in standby. Image retention on an LCD clears by turning it off for a while or playing moving video.
📐 方法與限制：壞點用肉眼檢查純色畫面；烙印的照片分析只是「有沒有可疑區域」的參考，不能判定是否符合保固。完整說明見測量方法與限制。
📐 Method & limits: Dead pixels are checked by eye on solid colors; the burn-in photo analysis is only a hint of suspicious areas and cannot decide warranty cases. See Methods & Limits.
🎨 色域覆蓋率代表什麼？
🎨 What does gamut coverage mean?
色域決定螢幕能顯示的顏色範圍。sRGB 是網頁與多數遊戲的標準；DCI-P3 用於電影、HDR 與現代手機，紅色與綠色更飽和；Adobe RGB 主要用於印刷設計，綠色特別寬廣；Rec.2020 是 HDR 影片的終極目標，目前只有頂級 QD-OLED、雷射投影等能涵蓋大部分。規格上的「覆蓋率」是螢幕色域與標準色域在 CIE 色度圖上重疊面積的百分比。
Gamut is the range of colors a screen can show. sRGB is the standard for the web and most games; DCI-P3 is used for film, HDR and modern phones with more saturated reds and greens; Adobe RGB is for print work with extra-wide greens; Rec.2020 is the ultimate HDR target that only top-end QD-OLED and laser projectors cover most of. "Coverage" on a spec sheet is the overlap between the screen's gamut and the standard on the CIE chromaticity diagram.
🪜 色域階梯的估算準嗎？
🪜 How accurate is the staircase estimate?
它是「粗估」：網頁無法量測螢幕實際發出的光，只能利用「超出螢幕能力的顏色會被截斷成同一色」的原理，讓你的眼睛找出每個原色的極限，再計算三角形重疊面積。結果受三件事影響：作業系統是否套用正確的螢幕色彩描述檔、瀏覽器的色彩管理，以及你的肉眼判斷，誤差可能達 ±10%。它很適合用來確認「廣色域有沒有真的開起來」或比較兩台螢幕；若需要規格等級的數字，請使用色度計搭配 DisplayCAL 等校色軟體量測。
It's a rough estimate. A web page can't measure the light your screen emits, so it relies on the fact that colors beyond the screen's range get clipped to the same color, lets your eyes find each primary's limit, then calculates triangle overlap. Accuracy depends on whether your OS applies a correct display profile, the browser's color management and your own judgment — expect up to ±10%. It's great for checking whether wide gamut is actually working or for comparing two screens; for spec-grade numbers, measure with a colorimeter and calibration software such as DisplayCAL.
為什麼廣色域螢幕卻測出 sRGB？
Why does my wide-gamut monitor test as sRGB?
- 螢幕 OSD 選在「sRGB 模式」，會把色域鎖在 sRGB（這是正常的色彩準確模式）The monitor OSD is set to "sRGB mode", which locks the gamut to sRGB (that's a normal accuracy mode)
- Windows 沒有安裝螢幕的 ICC 色彩描述檔，瀏覽器只好把螢幕當成 sRGB；Windows 11 可開啟「自動管理應用程式的色彩」Windows has no ICC profile for the monitor, so the browser assumes sRGB; on Windows 11 you can turn on "Automatically manage color for apps"
- 使用 Firefox：預設不會對 CSS 顏色做色彩管理，建議改用 Chrome、Edge 或 SafariYou're using Firefox, which doesn't color-manage CSS colors by default — use Chrome, Edge or Safari
🌗 暗部 / 亮部方塊怎麼判讀？
🌗 How do I read the shadow / highlight boxes?
暗部能看到 1–4 代表暗部細節很好，8 以上開始壓黑；亮部能看到 252–254 代表亮部細節良好。若暗部 16 以下全黑、亮部 235 以上全白，幾乎可以確定是顯示卡與螢幕的「RGB 範圍（完整 / 有限）」設定不一致，常見於 HDMI 連接的螢幕或電視，改成兩邊都是「完整 / Full」即可。測試時請關閉動態對比、HDR 與護眼模式，並在正常亮度的環境下觀看。
Seeing shadows from 1–4 means excellent shadow detail; from 8 upward they start to crush. Seeing highlights up to 252–254 means good highlight detail. If everything below 16 is black and everything above 235 is white, it's almost certainly an RGB range (Full / Limited) mismatch between the GPU and monitor — common over HDMI — so set both to Full. Turn off dynamic contrast, HDR and eye-care modes while testing.
📐 Gamma 是什麼？測出來該是多少？
📐 What is gamma and what should it be?
Gamma 決定螢幕從黑到白「中間的灰階」有多亮。網頁、Windows 與多數遊戲都以 2.2 為標準；低於 2.1 畫面會偏亮、偏灰、黑色不夠黑，高於 2.3 則對比強烈但暗部細節容易被吃掉（2.4 是暗室看電影的標準）。測試原理是：一條亮、一條黑的 1 像素細紋平均剛好是 50% 亮度，和它看起來一樣亮的灰階數值就能換算出 Gamma。若紅、綠、藍三色測出的 Gamma 差很多，灰階就會在不同亮度下偏色。測試時請讓瀏覽器縮放維持 100%、正視螢幕，並關閉動態對比與護眼模式。
Gamma controls how bright the in-between grays are from black to white. The web, Windows and most games target 2.2; below 2.1 the picture looks bright and washed out with weak blacks, above 2.3 contrast is punchy but shadow detail gets lost (2.4 is the dark-room movie standard). The test works because alternating 1-pixel bright and dark lines average exactly 50% brightness, and the gray level that looks equally bright tells you the gamma. If red, green and blue give very different values, grays will shift color at different brightness levels. Keep browser zoom at 100%, look straight at the screen, and turn off dynamic contrast and eye-care modes.
📐 方法與限制：色域覆蓋率是估算值，網頁量不到螢幕實際發出的光，無法取代色度計。完整說明見測量方法與限制。
📐 Method & limits: Gamut coverage is an estimate; a web page cannot measure the light the screen emits, so it cannot replace a colorimeter. See Methods & Limits.
🩺 螢幕數據健檢怎麼運作？為什麼要自己選型號？
🩺 How does the health check work, and why do I pick the model myself?
螢幕的型號與支援規格記錄在 EDID 裡，但基於隱私與安全，瀏覽器不允許網頁讀取 EDID。網頁能做的是「實測」：用畫面更新的時間間隔算出瀏覽器目前拿到的更新率，用螢幕尺寸與縮放比例算出輸出解析度，再和我們整理的規格庫比對。所以型號需要你選擇；在 Chrome／Edge 電腦版，可以按「自動辨識型號」並允許權限，讓系統提供螢幕名稱來自動比對。規格庫裡的每一筆都對照過官方規格頁或專業評測，偵測到的數值只在你的瀏覽器裡計算，不會上傳。筆電、掌機與手機的內建螢幕不比對型號，改成選擇最高更新率（見下一題）。
A monitor's model and supported modes live in its EDID, but for privacy and security reasons browsers don't let web pages read it. What a page can do is measure: the time between screen updates gives the refresh rate the browser is getting, and screen size × scaling gives the output resolution, which we then compare with our spec database. That's why you pick the model yourself; in desktop Chrome/Edge you can press "Detect my model" and allow the permission so the system provides the monitor name for automatic matching. Every entry is checked against official spec pages or professional reviews, and your measurements are calculated in your browser only, never uploaded. Built-in laptop, handheld and phone screens aren't matched by model; you pick the maximum refresh rate instead (see the next question).
💻 筆電、掌機的內建螢幕可以檢測嗎？
💻 Can I check a laptop or handheld's built-in screen?
可以。在健檢上方選「筆電／掌機內建螢幕」，再點選螢幕的最高更新率就好。同一型號的筆電常搭配 60Hz、144Hz、165Hz 等不同面板，比對型號很容易判斷錯，所以改用這個方式。最高更新率可以在 Windows「設定 → 系統 → 顯示器 → 進階顯示器」的「選擇重新整理頻率」選單找到，最大的數字就是答案。筆電和掌機最常見的問題是用電池時自動降到 60Hz，健檢會列出對應的檢查步驟。在 Chrome／Edge 按「自動辨識型號」時，如果系統回報是內建螢幕，也會自動切換到這個模式。
Yes. At the top of the check, choose "Laptop / handheld screen" and pick the screen's maximum refresh rate. The same laptop model often ships with different panels (60 Hz, 144 Hz, 165 Hz…), so matching by model would easily be wrong. You'll find the maximum in Windows under Settings → System → Display → Advanced display: the highest number in "Choose a refresh rate" is the answer. The most common problem on laptops and handhelds is dropping to 60 Hz on battery, and the check lists the steps to fix it. In Chrome/Edge, "Detect my model" also switches to this mode automatically when the system reports a built-in screen.
為什麼明明是 144Hz／240Hz 螢幕，卻測出 60Hz？
Why does my 144 Hz / 240 Hz monitor test at 60 Hz?
- Windows 沒改：新螢幕接上後常預設 60Hz，要到「顯示設定 → 進階顯示器 → 選擇重新整理頻率」手動調高。Windows wasn't changed: new monitors often start at 60 Hz, so raise it in Display settings → Advanced display → Choose a refresh rate.
- 線材或接孔頻寬不夠：舊 HDMI 線、轉接頭，或接在主機板而不是顯示卡上。Cable or port bandwidth: an old HDMI cable or adapter, or plugging into the motherboard instead of the graphics card.
- HDMI 本身的上限：不少螢幕用 HDMI 只能跑 144Hz 甚至更低，要用 DisplayPort 才能跑滿，健檢會依型號提醒。The HDMI limit itself: many monitors top out at 144 Hz or lower over HDMI and need DisplayPort for full speed. The check tells you when that applies to your model.
- 多螢幕：瀏覽器會跟著視窗所在的那台螢幕，請把視窗拖到要檢測的螢幕上再按「重新檢測」。Multiple monitors: the browser follows the monitor its window is on, so drag the window to the monitor you want to check and press "Check again".
- 省電模式：Chrome／Edge 的省電模式會把網頁限制在 30 FPS，筆電用電池時也可能降頻。Energy saver: Chrome/Edge Energy Saver caps pages at 30 FPS, and laptops on battery may lower the refresh rate.
- 用 Safari 測：Safari 以及 iPhone／iPad 上的瀏覽器預設會把網頁限制在約 60 FPS，測到 60Hz 是瀏覽器的限制，不代表螢幕有問題，電腦請改用 Chrome 或 Edge。Testing in Safari: Safari and all browsers on iPhone/iPad limit pages to about 60 FPS by default, so 60 Hz there is a browser limit, not a screen problem. On a computer, use Chrome or Edge.
📮 找不到我的型號怎麼辦？
📮 My model isn't listed. What now?
規格庫只收錄外接螢幕；筆電、掌機請改選「筆電／掌機內建螢幕」，不需要提交型號。外接螢幕可以先試著只輸入型號的英數字部分（例如「27GP850」而不是完整名稱）。真的找不到，可以展開「找不到你的型號？提交規格」填寫規格，送出時會附上本機測到的更新率與解析度，幫助我們核對。我們會對照官方資料確認後再加入規格庫；覺得現有規格有誤，也可以按型號卡片上的「規格有誤？」回報。提交內容不會公開顯示。考量螢幕產品的更新週期較長，規格清單預計每半年更新一次，期間收到的提交會在下次更新時一併核對加入。
The database only covers external monitors; for laptops and handhelds, choose "Laptop / handheld screen" instead, with no need to submit the model. For an external monitor, first try typing only the letters and numbers of the model (e.g. "27GP850" instead of the full name). If it's really missing, open "Model not listed? Submit its specs" and fill in the specs. Your measured refresh rate and resolution are attached to help us verify it, and we add it after checking official data. If existing specs look wrong, use "Specs wrong?" on the model card. Submissions are never shown publicly. Because monitor product cycles are long, the list is planned to be updated every six months, and submissions received in between are verified and added in the next update.
📊 如何判讀 Jitter 數值？
📊 How to read the Jitter value?
Jitter（幀間抖動）是每一幀生成時間的標準差，反映畫面輸出的穩定程度。以下是參考基準：
Jitter is the standard deviation of each frame's generation time, reflecting the stability of the visual output. Here is a reference baseline:
- 0–0.5 ms：極佳，畫面非常平滑Excellent, extremely smooth visuals.
- 0.5–2 ms：良好，一般使用不易察覺Good, barely noticeable in general use.
- 2 ms 以上2 ms+：明顯抖動，可能感受到輕微頓挫Noticeable jitter, you may feel slight micro-stutters.
若數值偏高，建議關閉背景程式、使用獨立顯示卡輸出、或在瀏覽器網址列輸入 chrome://flags/#enable-raw-draw 嘗試啟用低延遲渲染。
If the value is high, we recommend closing background apps, using a dedicated GPU, or typing chrome://flags/#enable-raw-draw in your browser to enable low-latency rendering.
📉 1% Low、0.1% Low 是什麼？為什麼比平均 FPS 重要？
📉 What are 1% Low and 0.1% Low? Why do they matter more than average FPS?
平均 FPS 會把偶爾的卡頓「平均掉」：一秒內 143 幀都很順、只有 1 幀卡了 50ms，平均 FPS 看起來仍然很高，但你會明顯感覺到頓一下。1% Low 是把最慢的 1% 幀挑出來看（本工具以第 99 百分位的幀時間換算成 FPS），0.1% Low 則看最慢的 0.1%，專門抓偶發的大卡頓。1% Low 越接近平均 FPS，畫面越穩；差距很大就代表有微卡頓（Micro-stutter）。這也是硬體評測常同時列出平均 FPS 與 1% Low 的原因。
Average FPS hides occasional hitches: if 143 frames in a second are smooth and one takes 50 ms, the average still looks high, but you clearly feel the hitch. 1% Low looks at the slowest 1% of frames (this tool converts the 99th-percentile frame time to FPS), and 0.1% Low looks at the slowest 0.1% to catch rare big stutters. The closer 1% Low is to the average, the steadier the picture; a big gap means micro-stutter. That's why hardware reviews list 1% Lows next to average FPS.
注意：這裡量的是瀏覽器畫面輸出的穩定度，正常情況下會被螢幕更新率限制，所以理想值是 1% Low 接近目前的 FPS。它適合用來抓背景程式、驅動或省電設定造成的系統卡頓；遊戲裡的 FPS 請用遊戲內建數據、NVIDIA FrameView、CapFrameX 或 MSI Afterburner 等工具量測。1% Low 需要約 300 幀、0.1% Low 需要約 1000 幀才會出現，測試時間越長越準。
Note: this measures how steadily the browser outputs frames, which is normally capped by your refresh rate, so ideally 1% Low stays close to the current FPS. It's good for catching system hitches from background apps, drivers or power settings; for in-game FPS, use the game's own stats or tools such as NVIDIA FrameView, CapFrameX or MSI Afterburner. 1% Low appears after about 300 frames and 0.1% Low after about 1000, so longer runs are more accurate.
Stutters（卡頓次數）高怎麼辦？
What if Stutters count is high?
當單幀耗時超過平均值的 110% 即被記錄為一次卡頓。常見原因包括：防毒軟體即時掃描、系統背景更新、垂直同步（V-Sync）引入的緩衝延遲，或瀏覽器分頁切換。建議在測試時關閉其他分頁並保持頁面前景執行。
A frame taking 110% longer than the average time is recorded as a stutter. Common causes include: real-time antivirus scanning, background updates, V-Sync buffer latency, or browser tab switching. Keep this page in the foreground during testing.
這個測試的準確度如何？
How accurate is this test?
此測試基於瀏覽器的 requestAnimationFrame API，屬於軟體層級估算。它無法取代 Leo Bodnar LDAT 等硬體延遲計量儀器，但對於比較「不同瀏覽器 / 不同設定下的相對穩定度」非常有效。同一台電腦、相同條件下，數值越低代表越好。
This is a software-level estimation based on the browser's requestAnimationFrame API. It cannot replace hardware tools like LDAT, but it is highly effective for comparing "relative stability across different settings." A lower number is always better.
📐 方法與限制：更新率與解析度是瀏覽器目前收到的值；型號規格庫由人工整理，可能有誤，歡迎回報。完整說明見測量方法與限制。
📐 Method & limits: Refresh rate and resolution are what the browser currently receives; the model spec list is compiled by hand and may be wrong, so please report mistakes. See Methods & Limits.
🎞️ 如何判斷 VRR (G-Sync/FreeSync) 有沒有生效？
🎞️ How to know if VRR is working?
此測試會刻意讓 FPS 在中樞值上下劇烈波動。由於瀏覽器畫面由系統以垂直同步方式合成，您主要觀察的是「卡頓與抖動的程度」：VRR 開啟時，低幀區間的畫面應較平穩、跳幀感較少；若持續出現嚴重卡頓或撕裂，代表 VRR 可能未生效。最確切的判斷方式是查看顯示卡控制面板的 VRR 狀態（NVIDIA G-SYNC / AMD FreeSync），並確認螢幕 OSD 中的可變更新率選項已開啟。
This test intentionally swings the FPS around your target value. Because browsers composite frames with vsync, you mainly observe the degree of stutter and judder: with VRR active, low-FPS moments should feel steadier with fewer visible frame drops; persistent heavy stutter or tearing suggests VRR is not working. The most reliable check is the VRR status in your GPU control panel (NVIDIA G-SYNC / AMD FreeSync) plus confirming Variable Refresh Rate is enabled in your monitor's OSD.
📐 方法與限制：只能觀察畫面間隔與掉幀，無法確認 G-Sync／FreeSync 是否在硬體層真的生效。完整說明見測量方法與限制。
📐 Method & limits: It can only observe frame intervals and drops; it cannot confirm that G-Sync / FreeSync is truly active in hardware. See Methods & Limits.